I'm in love

I know, I know, I usually love whatever just came off the loom, but this time I think it’s a long-lasting love, not just a passing crush.

In the last post you saw my work hand painting two bouts of yarn – a terra cotta and an intended teal that was actually turquoise Neither was exactly what I’d had in mind, but I was hoping they’d play nicely together for my weaving plan. I was happy with the colors while beaming.

This is a deflected doubleweave structure, so it meant twice as many threads (480) as usual for a scarf, and 2 shuttles to weave I picked 2 colors of yarn and started weaving. I really like this cool on-the-loom shot.

As always, although I liked the look on the loom, I couldn’t be positive about the pieces till they were off the loom, fringed, and wet finished. Especially since this was a structure I hadn’t woven before, and the number of threads involved in a narrow piece, had my fingers crossed that it would work as planned, that the ‘hand’ or drape and feel, would be pleasing, as well as the color choices.

You just have to trust me when I tell you that none of the photos I took show these scarves to their best advantage. I couldn’t ge the colors just right. But I know I will be using this scarf for one of my jury photos...I think it’s a show stopper! Sometimes I think looks like a fish, sometimes like jewelry, sometimes like a watercolor painting with metals in the paint.

I used the same light teal for the green-ish/blue-ish weft throughout, but changed the terra cotta warp with each piece. The differences are subtle, and not noticeable unless you see them side by side.

I will absolutely use this weaving draft again, even though as a 2-shuttle weave it’s slow. So where did I get the draft from? A woman in my Guild bought a scarf and brought it into a weaving class, where she and the teacher analyzed it and wrote out the draft. A third woman wove it up, brought the finished scarf to a Guild meeting where I drooled over it, and later shared the draft with me. Thanks, Toni, Joyce, & Eleanor!!

In other weaving news, I did finish weaving the black and white shawls. Had to get them off the loom to do the terra cotta & turquoise. Just like the scarves, I much prefer the look of the shawl with the white weft. Don’t know how others will feel. I wanted a contrast with the creamy white of the warp yarn and a weft. This isn’t as noticeable as I’d desired, but was the best I could do... mercerized cotton white weft.

So I’ll finish January with 9 completed pieces. Feeling good about that.

I’ve reconnected with a friend from years ago, and since she’s moved I want to bring her a few towels for her new home. My towel stock was woefully low, so I put a quick warp for just 8 towels on the loom and am weaving them. Towels won’t count in meeting my monthly goals, so I’m mentally planning for February’s weaving while I’m weaving those towels.

January 31st, 2018 | 

Remembering Mondrian

Sometimes when much of life is completely beyond my control I tend to obsess. One way to combat obsessive thoughts is to occupy my brain with complex tasks that don’t allow much room for other activity. That’s what I did for the past several days.

I’ve long wanted to do a different kind of doubleweave. My first doubleweave, accomplished back in 2009, just 2 years after I ha my first weaving lesson ever, was a double width baby blanket. I did a few more double width things, then got away from doubleweave for a bit. Recently I used doubleweave to weave the tubes that ended up being those little treasure pouches.

Although as a concept doubleweave takes a while to wrap your head around, for me, neither weaving double wide nor tubes is particularly difficult or time consuming. This project was different. I wanted to weave what’s typically called color windows. I can show you much better than I can explain what this means.

So the photo up top is an example of color windows. Each of the colored squares is surrounded by black, on the order of a bloc y stained glass. This is cool enough, but it’s double cool when you look at the other side. The design flips to black windows with colored borders!

I enjoyed watching the patterns build as I wove. What I didn’t enjoy was all of the bobbin-changing required in this piece. It’s a two-shuttle weave — one for the black thread & one for the colored thread — so it’s automatically slower, more than twice as slow for me, than using a single shuttle. But with these ‘perfect’ little squares, every time I got to the next square, approximately every inch, I had to change the thread in my colored bobbin to the next color. This dramatically slowed the process down even more. I used the warp color order forward & reverse for my weft colors. That is, I wove the colors as follows: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, F, E, D, C, B, A.

Then, I’m weaving along, and realize that I have miscalculated. When considering how much yarn I needed for the weft for each scarf, I did the calculations as if I was weaving a single layer. With doubleweave, the scarf is 2 layers thick, so you need twice a much yarn. For the colors, no problem. For the black, though....I ran out after about 66′′. I had more black rayon, but I’ve ‘been there done that’ enough to know that all blacks are not created equal. The other rayon was not just a different dye lot, it was a different manufacturer. Although they looked to same to my eyes on the cone, I wasn’t going to take a chance that the last 10′′ would look different and would therefore ruin the looks of the entire piece I’d already spent so much time on. So I decided that a well-done shorter scarf was better than a longer one that caught your eye with an error.

Ok, on to scarf #2. I didn’t want to change my bobbin every inch or so, so decided to alter the pattern slightly. I’d alternate the lengths of my windows and only change bobbins every 3′′ or so. I was surprised at how much quicker this was! I stuck with my color order though, with the weft colors following the same order as the warp colors, without reversing. I decided I didn’t want th much of the light colors grouped together, so wove with colors A-G, then started again at A.

I enjoyed weaving this scarf so much more that I figured I’d get a bit looser still for scarf #3, and change the size of the windows and the colors as my weaving muse saw fit at the moment. Sometimes there’s only 3′′ of color, sometimes more than 5′′. As I wa weaving this scarf it reminded me of Mondrian, a painter many of us became familiar with in the 60s. Although Mondrian had already been dead for 80 years, that was when Yves St. Laurent used his color block style in dresses. I couldn’t change the wid of my blocks, only their lengths.

I’ve now fringed and washed these 3 scarves. I’ve put them outside to dry, but may end up having to toss them in the dryer if the sun and/or breeze doesn’t appear. I’ve hung them on this rack so you can see part of both front and back of each.

I wove these scarves in 8/2 rayon, sett at 18 ends per inch per layer, so 36 ends per inch total. We’ll see how they feel and drap when they’re dry and pressed. I may need to use finer yarn next time. The woman who now, after seeing the time commitment, blows my mind even more with her work uses 60/2 silk – almost 15,000 yards of silk in one pound, compared to about 3,300 yards per pound in my 8/2 rayon. I think I showed an image of one of her shawls before, but here’s a treat for your eyes again.

Some day, when I’m not weaving baby wraps..........

June 25th, 2015 |

Doubleweave Workshop

I spent Saturday & Sunday at a workshop the Southern Tier Fiberarts Guild sponsored. It was all about doubleweave. We had a small group – only 6 of us, so we were each able to get all sorts of guidance from Pat Edwards, our teacher.

Three of us were working on floor looms, three on table looms.
Here Joan’s warping up her little Mountain loom. The swinging beater was fascinating to me. Hinged at the top and moving free at the bottom, her hand applied all the pressure, not the beater itself. Interesting.

I rarely work on a table loom myself, but didn’t have a reasonable way to get my beloved floor loom to the workshop site. It’s sweet, small, and light, but doesn’t fold at all, so it’s pretty bulky. Carol was very gracious to loan me her table loom, but there’s nothing like working on a loom you’re familiar with. And there’s really little comparison in shed size between most table looms and most floor looms – floor looms have it beat hands down. Weaving puns intended.

Regardless of the loom used, each of us were working with 4 colors, warped in a straight draw. One side of warp was 2 colors, alternately warped ABAB. The other side was all 4 colors, alternately warped ABCD, ABCD. I wanted high contrast in my warp s I could see the impact of what I was doing, not colors that I necessarily liked or would use in other circumstances. My 2 main colors were a bright orangey-red and a basic blue. The other two were pink and dark purple.

With 4 harnesses, there are six color combinations for top & bottom warp colors. We used each of these combinations, using on of our two main colors for weft.

Carlyn chose colors that all look lovely together, not like my gaudiness.

In addition to the six color combination blocks, Pat taught us how to use doubleweave to weave hinges, tubes, and envelopes.

Doubleweave hinges allow you to make a piece that’s twice as wide as your loom. I’ve used this technique before to make some of my handwoven baby blankets.

Woven tubes come in handy. You can easily make bags & pillows, but if you’re clever and creative, you can do lots more. I’m going to think about a new cowl-hood design that’s tube woven.

I’m less clear on how useful a woven envelope is. Or maybe just less creative in my thinking. Regardless, it is an interesting technique.

After learning how to do those three structures, Pat taught us how to do doubleweave pickup. We each created a little design, called a cartoon, that we’d weave into the cloth. It’s very cool, in that what’s light on the front is dark on the back. Pat encourage us to keep it simple, to start with angles, not curves.

Here’s my second attempt at color blocks.

I kept messing up on the first, so just considered it all a learning experience, but DON’T need to take pictures of it. You’ll see at glance that my selvedges are a mess and my beat is uneven. You can pay attention to just so much at one time, and the purpos of this part of the workshop was to learn the doubleweave pickup technique, not to produce a finished product.

I did want to see if I could do curves. Tried my hand at the yin-yang symbol.

Again, not work of quality, but that wasn’t the point; learning was the point.
Val was quite brave, making a little running rabbit for her first attempt at pickup.

While we were all busy learning doubleweave in her cozy studio, Carol decided to weave some yardage using a combination of wool, silk, linen, and (I think) cotton. She plans to dye it in her beautiful natural dyes, then make it into a garment. She knows each of the fibers will take the dye differently, making for some interesting variegation. Whew! I don’t think I’d have the oomph to dye it – the undulating twill with those natural colors is too beautiful for me.

Once I get the handwoven hearts baby blankets off the loom, I plan to do some doubleweave double-width baby blankets in a sweet variegated cotton flannel I have. They’re always popular when I have them in stock.

Gotta go back & hit the couch – I’ve been battling the flu for a week, and it struck back today.

April 20th, 2011